Dining Review: Elegant setting, excellent food at Interim

September 12th, 2014        —        Eat Here, Interim, News

BY: Jennifer Biggs, Commercial Appeal

Jason Dallas is preparing some of the best food in the city, and doing so in a space beautifully designed to showcase his considerable culinary talent.

Time for an Interim primer: The great space on Sanderlin opened as Wally Joe in 2002. Joe (who now owns Acre) and co-owner Fred Carl had a falling-out, the restaurant closed in early 2007, and not long after that it opened as Interim, so named because there were no long-term plans; it was to be operated — in the interim — until a replacement restaurant was found.

Jackson Kramer, who had worked under Joe, took charge of the kitchen. The menu was changed, prices were reduced, and it was a hit. Kramer left for a year, and Josh Belenchia stepped up; when he left to open Buon Ciba in Hernando, Kramer returned and stayed until February, when he left to open his own place (Bounty on Broad; look for it this fall).

Enter Dallas — the only chef in the 12-year history of the space not once part of Team Joe, for whom the elegant dining room and the impressive kitchen were designed. Like the chefs who preceded him, he’s shown himself worthy of the real estate. Unlike them, he brings a fine dining background that has elevated Interim to new heights. As good as it’s been, now it’s better.

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